From Anchorage to Ushuaia by Bike

We took 4 days to go from Glennallen to Tok, on the Tok Cutoff Highway. It has been opened a century ago, when the American government decided that the town named “Eagle” (near Dawson City) will be the mine center of Alaska.

The first part was very long and not scenic, in spruce forests. We did not know where to sleep, but we found the right place in Chistochina: just entering the village, we saw a picnic table and some installation for a RV. So we decided to go and ask if it was possible to pinch our tent there. Our hosts were working on the cabins of an old lodge, to rent them. We had a complete visit of the buildings, a shower in their own bathrooms (because the shower building was not yet finished) and a really nice conversation on life and bears in Alaska. We were so well welcomed that we regretted not to have spent our rest day in Chistochina instead of Glennallen.

The next day, we left very late because of nice and long talks with our hosts and their friend from California who came to help them. Thea has invited us to stay in her place in Santa Cruz (California) when we will be over there!

After few kilometers, a man told us from his pick-up that there was a « free camping » on mile 61… When we arrived, we saw a nice place with grass and picnic table. We were so happy to pinch our tent over there (in RV parks, grass is very very rare!). But it was not the free camping … the owner of the place who actually was the pick-up man, led us to the back of his house where it was less nice to the free camping: an old bus! He added: “this keeps the bears away” … In the surroundings bears are everywhere, very numerous and do not hesitate to come close to the houses. So the owner prefers to offer “free bus” to people, instead of having them pinching their tent anywhere. Sara was anxious … Sébastien tried not to show it, but he was also anxious!

The third day, up hills were numerous. Even if the landscapes were beautiful, we did not have much motivation for the 17 miles of the day … with head wind! We finally arrived in Mentasta Lodge where we asked the authorization to pinch our tent on the grass … but we had a total refuse: “this is MY PRIVATE property” … So we had to inch our tent in the RV park, on the stones … During the evening, the wind blew off our tent … so we had to get out in the rain to hold it and find a solution to put it back in place … As we could not pinch it, we used stones to hold it on the ground!

We arrived in Tok, after 77 kilometers, with strong front wind! We had the chance to see several moose on the way as well as a porcupine. While Sara was taking back her breath, a moose crossed the road just few meters from her. She thought about putting her bike between the animal and her in case it would charge, but not even a picture! You have to know that a moose can charge you if it feels danger and kill. So you have to be careful all the time and keep away from those calm “cows”.

Tok is a town with lots of people just passing through with all the services that a tourist can need. We will spend tomorrow here … it will be our rest day!